The next journey will bring us in an emerging (although still healing after the second world war) 1945 Rome, in the old fashioned Via Barberini. Yet another influential street.

Yet other creative artists who revolutionized Italian fashion and not only. Just like the rise of the British style, the Italian was also a slow and steady road to worldwide success and appreciation.

It was only in 1952 that that idea grew immensely after the first fashion show (properly said) held at Palazzo Pitti in Florence.

Many names are believed to have had a significant role in the design of the Italian suit, as we know it today. Some remarkable mentions are Ermenegildo Zegna, Nazareno Fonticoli (founder of Brioni) and Armani.

Regardless of the particular tailor or designer, there’s one common element that created the Italian suit: Italians. Here we see how the nature of the people itself leads designers to a completely new concept of formal wear.

Italians were not comfortable in the stiff and structured British cut. A garment that is way too rooted in traditions to leave very little room to accommodate more stylish trends. A suit that is too heavy to be worn comfortably in warmer weather.

The Italian suit evolved in many styles over the years. Nowadays, we identify three major styles in Italy, namely Romano, Napoletano and Milanese. But going into the details of these three would be too big of a diversion and the topic is so detailed that would be itself another article!

For now, imagine yourself in the glorious Palazzo Pitti seeing the Italian suit for the first time back in 1952. Those elements, those details, those lines are still the ones you would see now in a modern Italian suit.

La Giacca – The Jacket

The jacket (giacca in Italian– allow me a little Italian lesson here and there) is made keeping one and one thing only in mind: lightness.

The garment, in fact, looks light, feels light, and wears light. It is short and fits tight and close to the body. The canvas is also very light. The jacket is considerably less structured compared to the British one, and as a result of that, the cloth follows one’s natural curves. The shoulders are lightly padded, and the overall padding is significantly reduced.

The front of the jacket shows a pronounced V-shape, tight at the waist. Fun fact: the V-shape is actually deemed very attractive in a man, a detail that could be the hidden secret to our great (almost effortless) success with women!

The jacket comes single-breasted, and also features high gorge lines, flapless pockets and high buttons (usually two or three – although more exotic variations can be also found).

I Pantaloni – The Pants

To accompany the light and stylish jacket, the heavy British pants in abundant fabric had to be completely redesigned! The sleek silhouette set by the jacket is a constant also in the pants, thus giving a smooth look from head to toes.

 

We’re looking at pants with a tapered waist, which fit really tight to the hips. It ends with one break, in the most traditional design. Nowadays, no-break type of pants is also common in the Italian style.

Menswear

READY-TO-WEAR VS MADE-TO-MEASURE VS BESPOKE
READY-TO-WEAR VS MADE-TO-MEASURE VS BESPOKE

James Bond’s suits over the past five decades have come from a variety of sources, each with their own benefits and drawbacks. The most notable providers of James Bond’s suits have been luxury...

» Read more
The Italian Suit
The Italian Suit

The next journey will bring us in an emerging (although still healing after the second world war) 1945 Rome, in the old fashioned Via Barberini. Yet another influential street. Yet other creative...

» Read more
How much does a bespoke suit cost?
How much does a bespoke suit cost?

For men who’ve never been to a tailor the price can seem intimidating, but in reality the cost is the least interesting thing about a hand-made suit. It’s as relevant to compare the price of a...

» Read more
The American “Sack” Suit
The American “Sack” Suit

The story behind the American suit is the living proof of how society and the economic situation within a particular country shape fashion. We’ll be looking back at New York City in the 1920s. The...

» Read more
The British or English Suit
The British or English Suit

We are now strolling in the street believed to have given birth to the traditional British suit. A street that signifies the British influence in traditional bespoke men’s tailoring. Built in the...

» Read more